Everything You’ll Need

Tool Checklist for Flooring

Tool / MaterialPurpose
Tape MeasureMeasure room and spacing
Chalk LineMark lines and guides
Straight EdgeGuide cuts and lines
Pry BarRemove old flooring
Utility KnifeTrim underlayment
Knee PadsProtect knees
Safety GlassesProtect eyes
GlovesProtect hands

Optional (But Helpful):

Tool / MaterialPurpose
Rubber MalletTap tiles gently

Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring

Start by removing baseboards and the old flooring to reveal the subfloor. This creates a flat area for your new floor.

Gently take off the baseboards with a pry bar without damaging the walls. If you are replacing carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into smaller parts and remove any glue. For old flooring, use a hammer and chisel or floor scraper to lift and remove the old materials.

Thoroughly Clean the Subfloor

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of dust, dirt, and debris. A clean surface helps the new floor stick better and prevents problems.

Check for Damage or Moisture

Look for cracks, holes, or uneven areas in the subfloor. Use a level to spot any low or high areas.

  • Cracks or holes: Repair them with patching compound.
  • Uneven areas: Use a floor leveling compound for a flat, stable surface. If working over concrete, check for moisture with a meter. Too much moisture can damage your floor, so fix any moisture problems first.

Install Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)

Depending on your subfloor type:

  • Wood subfloors: Install cement backer board for a strong, water-resistant foundation.
  • Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t require underlayment, but a crack isolation or waterproofing membrane might be recommended.

Attach backer board panels according to the manufacturer’s instructions, using the correct screws and leaving gaps between panels.

Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout

Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines

First, find the center of the room. Measure the middle of each wall and use chalk to draw lines across the floor. Where the lines meet is where you start laying the flooring to keep it balanced.

Choose Your Flooring Layout Pattern

Simple patterns are best for beginners:

  • Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Flooring lines up with the walls, forming neat rows.
  • Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Set the flooring at a 45-degree angle to the walls for a bold look. It’s a bit more challenging but possible.

Note: Complex designs like herringbone or parquet need advanced skills and aren’t suggested for beginners.

Dry-Fit Flooring to Check Alignment

Try laying a few rows without glue (this is dry-fitting). This helps you:

  • Check how everything aligns and spaces.
  • See how the flooring fits with walls, cabinets, or doorways.
  • Avoid small pieces at edges, which can look awkward and may break.

Spacing and Grout Lines

Use spacers during the dry fit to keep even grout lines. Typical spacer sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch based on the flooring style.

Calculate Flooring Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)

Measure the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:

  • Multiply the total square footage by 1.10 (for easy layouts) or 1.15 (for diagonal or tricky areas) to cover cuts and errors.
  • Order that much flooring to ensure you have enough for the project.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

For most flooring projects, especially big areas, thinset mortar is the best way to install. It makes a strong hold between the floor and the layer below.

Common Methods:

  • Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
    This cement-based glue is great for floors. It can support weight and manage moisture and temperature changes well. Many DIYers and professionals use thinset for its strength and reliability.
  • Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
    Good for small DIY areas or wall tiles in dry places. It’s easier to use but not strong enough for most floor installations or wet spaces.

Note: For flooring, thinset is usually the best choice.

Installation MethodBest ForStrength & DurabilityDIY FriendlinessNotes
Thinset MortarFlooring, wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens), large spaces⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent)ModerateStandard for flooring. Handles moisture, weight, and movement.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)Small dry areas, wall tiles⭐⭐ (Limited)EasyNot advised for flooring or wet areas. Faster application but less durable.

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor

Mix the Mortar
Start by preparing the thinset mortar as directed on the package. Use a clean bucket and a drill with a mixing paddle for a smooth blend. Allow it to rest for a few minutes, then mix again before applying.

Spread the Mortar
Use a notched trowel to evenly spread the mortar on a small section of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create consistent ridges. These ridges help the material stick properly and ensure a flat installation.

Work in Small Sections
Only cover an area you can complete in 10–15 minutes. This prevents the mortar from drying out before placing the material.

Pro Tip:
For stronger adhesion, apply a thin layer of mortar to the back of larger pieces, especially for those over 12 inches.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles

Starting right is important for the whole project.

Begin at Your Layout Center Point
Use chalk lines to start at the room’s center or a main point. This helps spread materials evenly.

Place the First Piece
Put the first piece into the glue. Press down hard and twist a little to make it stick.

Use Spacers
Put spacers between each piece to keep gaps even. This gives a neat, professional look.

Check for Level
After placing some pieces, use a level to ensure the surface is flat. Adjust if needed before the glue dries.

Pro Tip:
Work in small sections so the glue doesn’t dry before the materials are set!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit

Cutting accurately is important for a clean, nice finish.

Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to get the size you need. Clearly mark the line with a pencil or wax pencil.

Choose the Right Tool

  • For straight cuts, a manual cutter is good.

  • For curved or detailed cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.

Cut in a Safe Area
Always cut outside or in a place with good airflow to avoid dust. Wear safety glasses and gloves for safety.

Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to save material and get a perfect fit!

Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure

After you set the first piece, continue placing each piece one by one. Begin at your starting point and use spacers to keep spacing even. Make sure they’re level and adjust to prevent uneven areas.

As you proceed, avoid stepping on the new pieces to keep them stable. Work in small sections so the adhesive stays wet until all pieces are set.

Once all pieces are set, allow the adhesive to dry for at least 24 hours (or follow the manufacturer’s instructions) before applying filler. Proper drying is essential for a strong and durable surface.

Step 8: Apply Grout

After the mortar is ready, grout the gaps between the tiles:

  1. Mix the Grout
    Follow the directions to mix the grout until it feels like peanut butter.

  2. Spread Grout Using a Float
    Use a rubber grout float at a 45° angle to spread grout on the tiles. Push down to fill all gaps.

  3. Remove Excess Grout
    Once filled, tilt the float steeply and scrape off extra grout from the tiles.

  4. Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
    Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe the tiles with a damp sponge. Rinse often and leave grout in the gaps.

  5. Final Buffing
    When the grout hazes (after 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff and remove any haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor

Clean Grout Residue
After grout dries (usually 24 to 48 hours), you might see a hazy film on the tiles. Use a damp sponge or a special cleaner to softly wipe the tiles, avoiding the grout lines.

Use Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout manufacturer, apply a grout sealer to protect it from moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small brush or a sealer bottle with a roller for precision. Allow the sealer to dry completely according to the instructions.

Put Back Baseboards and Transition Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall the baseboards and add any necessary transition strips between different floor areas or rooms. This helps the new floor look tidy and professional.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation

Installing your own flooring can help save money, but it might not be right for everyone. Here’s how to decide between doing it yourself or hiring a pro.

DIY Pros

  • Costs less at first
  • Work at your own speed
  • Good for small, simple areas (bathrooms, laundry rooms)

DIY Cons

  • Takes time, skill, and special tools
  • Mistakes can be expensive to fix
  • Hard for tricky layouts or big spaces

Professional Installation Pros

  • Expert work with lasting results
  • Quicker finish, especially for big areas
  • Includes preparation, cutting, and cleanup
  • Warranties often provided

Professional Installation Cons

  • Costs more at first
  • Less control over when it’s done

Cost Comparison

Here’s what you might pay:

Installation TypeAverage Cost per Sq FtTypical Total for 250 Sq Ft
DIY Installation$2 – $8 (materials + rental tools)$500 – $2,000
Professional Installation$8 – $25$2,000 – $6,250

👉 For a full breakdown, check out our website.

Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation

Get the best results from your DIY project with these tips:

  • Save time by organizing tools and materials first. Keep everything close by.
  • Use a good saw for clean and precise cuts.
  • Mix small amounts. This keeps it from drying out too fast.
  • Check for level often with a spirit level.
  • Work in small sections. This prevents the material from drying too soon.
  • Reduce breakage. Cut slowly and wear safety glasses.

Common Mistakes to Avoid in DIY Projects

Even skilled DIYers can make these mistakes:

  1. Not leveling the subfloor. An uneven subfloor can cause problems.
  2. Forgetting spacers. Uneven lines can look unprofessional.
  3. Walking on materials before they cure. This can shift the alignment.
  4. Using too much or too little material. This affects how well it sticks and looks.
  5. Not cleaning right away. Delays can make cleaning very hard.

Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?

Learn how to put in flooring and make it last. If you want experts, we can help.

Our flooring installation team takes care of everything, from getting the floor ready to finishing it. We help you pick the right materials for your space and budget.

Contact us today for a free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area!